Well, we went from the shiny, prosperous and relaxed atmosphere of Bangkok to the chaotic, dirt poor, still shell shocked Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia. And it was shocking. We had not bought a guide, usually a useful compendium of tourist fears and grievances, and so we didn't exactly know it resembles more the wild west than a capital city. First,I got into some diplomatic contretemps because the Cambodian immigration boss could not find where to stick the visa in my passport. This is the first time this ever happened to me, so I was at a loss and decided to pump up the ingenue routine just in case, which was just as well, since when i asked him what could I do, he slashed his finger across his throat and said "kill", as a friendly joke. Give this country's history of genocide, I found it in extremely bad taste, especially if he meant I should kill myself.